9/8/07Arrived at Rio de Janeiro International Airport @ 815 am after 12+ hours of flying. Danilo was waiting for me. He was still the same guy, but this time with a full beard (to look older and convince his law clients he isn't a rookie) and an additional 25 pounds of (mostly) muscle on his frame. We cruised around the city a little bit and arrived at his cousin Felipe’s apartment in Copacabana. His apartment is on the same street where I used to stay when I lived here 5+ years ago – Nossa Senhora de Copacabana. You can find it on Google Maps (http://maps.google.com/), just type in this address: Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 300, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Despite the fact that I have been traveling extensively in 2007, Rio is the kind of place that even the most prepared travelers need to prepare for. While Rome, Italy might seem chaotic to the untrained eye, there is certainly an order to the madness. In Rio, there is just madness! Rio is the kind of place where a taxi or bus driver will hit an old lady who is not fast enough to cross the street. In Rome, they would at least apply the brakes!
I think the striking difference between Rio and even Mexico City is that many people are on the brink. There is so much "informal" business (black or grey market activities) that takes place, just so people can scratch out an existence. And by "scratch", that would be putting it lightly. These people push, haggle, intimidate and do whatever they can do to get that Brazilian Real out of you. Being in Rio has made realize just how privileged we are in the States, even those "ghetto fabulous" individuals. Rio is quite a bit more expensive than Mexico City and in many ways rivals that of other large cities such as New York. The cost to ride the bus is R$2.20, which is a little more than a dollar to an American, but to a Carioca “fica caro” (is very expensive) and the subway is just slightly higer at R$2.35 per ride.

Since my fellow Thunderbird student/friend, John Frazier, is looking to buy a car, I was in shock when I found out that a 2003 VW Gol (smaller than a Golf) is going for R$20,000 (~$10k USD). I soon found out that any car in Brazil is very expensive due to import costs. For example, a new Mitsubishi Pajero (Montero) is roughly R$120,000 – nearly $60,000 USD! What Brazilian can afford that? You’d be surprised how many do, despite the fact that the PPP per capita is only $9,108 USD. It shows you just how striking the income disparity truly is.

Back to my living situation. So Felipe, who is more like a familiar person as opposed to a direct cousin of Danilo, is a 38 year-old, bass guitar player who plays computer games (free version of Dungeons & Dragons) literally all day and night. As Danilo describes him, he is “desligado” or a person who is zoned out (doesn't smoke weed, only Clove cigarettes). He is the son of Gastão, the owner of the apartment. The apartment is of average size – two large bedrooms, a large living room/dining room, bathroom, and a room for a servant. Right now we’re five guys in 3 rooms. I wish I had the servant’s room, which is about the size of a large coffin. I have plenty of closet space, but can’t wait until I can get my own place.
Of course, knowing me, you’d think I’d have been smart enough to pack better for this trip. However, since I was in Europe for 2.5 months and then NYC for 3 months, I pretty much had all of my possessions in 2 large suitcases and 2 carry-ons. The problem? I don’t have a lot of tropical clothes. So I still need to buy some shorts or “bermudas” as their known locally.
Later that day Danilo took me to “Casa & Video”, roughly a Target equivalent (very rough that is). I can’t remember how São Paulo is, but Rio seems less developed to me than I recall. In Mexico, for example, there is Wal-Mart so you can get everything you need - 24/7. Here, most products are made in the domestic market and aren’t really up to par as far as quality goes.
We later spent part of the afternoon in Laranjeira’s (Danilo’s neighborhood, which in Portuguese means "orange groves" due to oranges being grown there in the past. Brazil is a tropical country, remember?) listening to “Chorino” a type of Brazilian music, drank some beers (a new one from Petropolis is called Itaipava) and ate “pastel de carne e frango”, a type of breaded dish stuffed with meat and other goodies. I couldn’t help but think of the song “Rio de Janeiro” by the Favela punk band – Moleque de Rua.


After that, we stopped by Rachel's (Danilo's girlfriend) parents’ place in Botafogo. Talk about a nice place! Her father works for Petrobras, the national petroleum company of Brazil. So he's pretty loaded. They treated me to food and even let me take a nap in the guest bedroom! Rachel has two sisters, one older and one younger one. The older one is an English teacher and is married with two kids. The kids both have their father’s eyes and are very attractive.
In the evening we went to, Icaro, a bar/restaurant in Niteroi to go to Rachel’s friend’s birthday party. He was a spoiled rich kid who had all of his friends there as well as his parents. I probably shouldn’t dog on him too much, but he was a little stuck on himself. His birthday cake was amazing, so kudos to whoever picked that cake. We ended up partying until 2 in the morning and I was totally beat after a previous night of airplane sleep.
9/9/07As Eazy-E once rapped on his “Straight Outta Compton” album, “woke up quick, at about noon, just knew I had to be in Compton soon.” I bested him and woke up at 1 pm. My body simply needed some rest. I took a stroll around “Copa” and went to one of the best grocery stores in all of Rio “Pão de Açúcar.”

This grocery-shopping experience, as well as the experience I had in Celakovice, Czech Republic, reminded me of how good we have it (read spoiled) in the US. As an American, I love American breakfasts, whether that includes bacon, potatoes and eggs or cereal and milk. Milk as we know it simply does not exist in Brazil. I still am a little chicken to try it, but basically you buy it in a box and after opening it you have to refrigerate it and it only lasts for three days.
So after about an hour or so perusing the shelves, I settled on some safe bets – cans of tuna ($2/can!), pasta (no cream sauce available – damn), and some stuff from the deli (e.g., Gnochi Bolognese – the Italians really do eat the best food in my mind).
I also bought some phone credit for Danilo’s extra cell phone, which he is allowing me to use during my stay in Rio. He has really gone out of his way to make sure I get set up. He’s even been offering help to John about whether to buy or rent a car. I’m glad I bought him a present (dress shirt) from the US – too bad it barely fits. I mean who knew he gained 25 pounds!

That afternoon I called Mariana (a friend I met the first time I came to Brazil) to see if she wanted to meet up. She chose a great local bar in Ipanema – Devassa, which means something related to the beach (still trying to figure that out). In any event, it was nice to see her after 5.5 years. Although we’ve been in touch a little bit thanks mainly to IM, it is quite the experience to see somebody after such a long time. There are certain people you meet in your life and you just know that you’ll always be friends for life. After catching up on our lives, Danilo and Rachel joined us. We drank Chopp or draft beer. They have several different types of ale beer from light (Loira) to medium (India) to dark (negra). I most enjoyed India, but I have to admit that Brazilian beer leaves much to desire. Maybe I’m just spoiled, but the Czech Republic’s “Staropramen” is still my favorite beer in the world – even outpacing Stella Artois, Heineken, Grolsch and XX Lager. What can I say – I’m a lager man all the way.
Later on, Mariana’s boyfriend, Rodrigo, shows up. I thought he was a lot bigger than he actually is because I didn’t see him walk up to the table. Don’t get me wrong, the dude is jacked, but he’s only about 5’6”. He seemed like such the mismatch for Mariana. But since he lives in “Barra” short for Barra da Tijuca (actually a small island off the coast), has a car and access to cash, I can see why she dates him – the opportunities to escape her situation of having to ride buses and taxis, etc., etc.
Danilo and Rachel both left at about 10:30 pm to get a good night’s rest before a typical Monday morning. I stayed with Mariana and Rodrigo for about another 30 minutes. I was all set to take a taxi back to the apartment, but Rodrigo offered me a ride, which was a favor, since Barra is quite far from where I’m staying in Copacabana. It turns out he works for a clothing store in the Barra Shopping Mall. He’s obsessed with Diesel jeans, which cost R$800 (or $400 USD) in Brazil. Brazil is turning out to be more expensive than I thought…US Fiscal and Monetary policy is not keeping pace, hence the continual slide of the US dollar against other top market economies’ currencies.
9/10/07
Today, I decided not to enroll at the IBEU language school to take a Portuguese class. It will cost over $600 and I don’t want to waste money until I get my apartment set up. Just as I was getting ready to step out, Danilo called me and asked if I wanted to join him for lunch. I took the metro from the “Copacabana Arcoverde” station and took it to the “Carioca” stop. It only took about 30 minutes, which was a welcomed change from having done so much long-distance travel the past few days. Danilo’s office is very nice. He rents space from a four-partner law firm who had one partner leave thereby opening up space for him. He pays R$1,000 per month to rent an office, which accommodates himself and his understudy, Orivaldo. We ended up going to an area very close to where Hugo and Thiago used to work. Danilo called his friend Milton on the way and he joined us for lunch. Milton designed Danilo’s website:
www.ferreiramendes.com. It’s a nice, simple site. Danilo has asked me to translate the site from Portuguese to English for him, which I willingly will do for free. I really enjoy the relationship I have with Danilo. I think we understand each other on many levels.

After lunch we made plans for how I can get to the Federal Police station in Niteroi on Tuesday morning. I’ll need to take a couple of buses and a boat to get there. I’ll be sure to bring the classified ads of the newspaper to keep me occupied while I wait.
Later that afternoon, we went to Danilo’s house to change into our gym clothes to work out. His grandma prepared me a Nescafe “cafezinho” (little coffee, like espresso). We headed over to Danilo’s gym - Saúd e Forma. He did his own routine, while I worked out with Beatriz, a dark-skinned Carioca (uma “nega”) trainer. She had me do about 8 different upperbody exercises and then I later ran on the treadmill for about 15 minutes.
Danilo was in a hurry to take his girlfriend to church so he left me by a bus stop to get home. I asked the bus driver if his bus went to Copacabana, which it did. I’m not sure when they changed the setup, but now the “trocadores” (change givers) on the bus sit behind the driver instead of in the rear of the bus as they did six years ago…